Had this recently.
Yep it was goooood…especially considering it was my first waves in 6 months…
Been busy. Hope you’re happy and healthy…
A 6 minute snippet of our trip to the South Coast.
(For best viewing select the highest quality setting (720p HD – at bottom of viewing pane) and view in full screen.)
Ahhh…winter waves….. Sweet.
Well, time continues to tick…. funny that….
We just got back recently from 2 weeks in Bali/Gili Trawangan – a little island off Lombok. It was a family affair as the better half, the kids and I bunked up with Aunty George and Uncle Baz in their ‘barn house’ on beautiful Pondok Santi. Also there, were my cousin Melo, Mark and their two boys Beau and Jarvis.
What a spot. A fast, hollow righthander straight out front which broke everyday besides 2 that we were there;
Post surf chill….
Then one day we took the “Princess Margot” over to Gilli Air (about 20 mins) and got this….
I’M THE KING OF……my own lunchbox……! (thanks Kat for the photos)
Daughter knackered but Aunt and Nephew going strong….
Would be so relaxing…….without kids..!!!!!! Thanks George, Baz and Pondok Santi!!!
What a busy year! – Seems like 6 months has passed in 3 days… weird..
Good news is that I’m still here and getting motivated to finish off the next movie (hopefully by December) and get into some designs and paintings in the new year. The Roids are heading back to G-town for the annual getaway so stay tuned for some antics out of that…
Footy has finished and after captaining the boys for the past 2 years, making a Grand Final last year, and then the semi’s this year, its time for me to take a step back, spend some Saturdays with the family, surf, paint and generally start doing all the things I can’t do when I’m playin footy… I’m looking forward to it but know that its going to be hard when footy season kicks off next year..
Thats a snapshot of my world. Sorry for the lack of posts – I’m still living in a warped idea of the digital age – where people still talk on phones and don’t bitch about others via Bookface… One of the many reasons I’ll never have a bookface page..
Until next time – Be happy!
It’s out there.
Recently I was lucky enough to be down in the ‘deep south’.
I haven’t really looked around much down there – usually I’ll stick to the south west corner, Margs etc… It’s a bit more predictable…
The Southern Ocean. Even on calm days its alive with an intensity that you can feel from the shore. When you get in, its a rush of refreshment – a shot of adrenalin as the water is always a couple of degrees cooler than anywhere else – and so clean. The coast is rugged and unforgiving. Not much grows on the headlands. The average weather for 3 quarters of the year is bitterly cold – southerlies that whip through, straight from the guts of Antarctica. You need a beard, yes, even the ladies, and smelling like fish all the time is a given. The tides, the currents, the freak waves that come from God-knows-where to lick fishermen off rocks as if they were never there… and then there’s the wildlife…
But, every now and then, she’s beautiful.
So, I consult my trusty map, look at the wind and make a call to follow some 4wd track to some isolated no-name beach, k’s from anywhere. Its one of the roughest tracks I’ve ever seen. It did cross my mind half way down a soft, heavily rutted, 45degree inclined hill that this could be a bad idea. I checked my phone. Yep. Nothin. Not one bar. So I kept going.
There were certain spots on the track which had thick black rubber layered for traction due to the soft hills. I kept driving in 1st gear for about a half hour, occasionally stopping at junctions to try and work out where the f I was. I followed my nose and as the sun started to dip, I came over a hill and saw the ocean.
I’m like, woah.
The little car park, looked well used, but the view was amazing.
There was a small golden beach, about 100m long with rocky points at both ends. Undulating, scrub covered hills fell steeply to the sand.
And then, the waves…
I was sitting there, brew in one hand, camera in the other watching the waves I could hear my brother, Frog, saying “YOU WHAT??? YOU DIDN’T F**KING SURF THAT?? ARE YOU F**KING STUPID??”
He’s right. But, I’ve found, with age comes sensibility (to a point). I can and can’t say I’m disappointed, just indifferent I guess. 10 years ago, being in the same situation, I would’ve been in that water before the car had stopped. Now, it’s not just me. There’s 3 more I have to consider.
And, as I sat in contemplation, 3rd brew in hand, camera still in the other with no phone reception and not a person for miles, I was thankful that I was able to be there just to witness that little blip in time.
And the waves kept coming…
The next morning, after a restless night of shattering breakers and sand blowing through my tent, it was still good. The photos do it justice though, as I’m not showing the 8ft full beach close outs.
There was a bronze cross that sat in the car park overlooking the beach. It said, RIP Craig ‘Bullfrog’ Noakes. Age 39. I bet he was a good bloke.
Thanks South Coast and see you soon… and as for this location? Unless you’re prepared to do some searching, that stays between me and Bullfrog.
Life! Blink, and you miss it!… or so they say…
Yep, it’s been busy lately but hopefully soon I can show you some of the designs I have been working on.
Hope you’re all happy and healthy, whoever you are!, and please keep checking back from time to time, or better still – drop me a line at email@example.com
Or even better still, commission me to do a painting for you – I need the motivation..!!!!!
Yep. Summer. It’s upon us.
It’s weird. As I get older I tend to dred those 40 degree days when it’s too hot to even walk down the beach to the water. Or, if I forget to take the cover off the pool, I jump in expecting that delicious rush of refreshment but instead it feels like I’m swimming in my own wee.
I’m very much an Autumn and Spring guy. Those crystal clear deep blue offshore days which hover around the 25 degree mark – Perfect. Which is what we got recently with our annual trip to Gracetown. This year it was more of a family affair with Ezza, Penny, Jordi and Riley joining our family to fill up the house. 4am starts meant that we were paddling out and surfing on our own for a good 1 – 2 hours before we saw another person. It was small, but Frog, Ezz and me made the most of it and had a good time.
Then followed the 2011 Roids at the Blackwood. It was everything you’d expect from a Roids trip – Jerka and Balls barefooted their arses off, I attempted to barefoot with the ‘unofficial’ time I was on my feet fluctuating between 1.75 and 5 seconds, before crack-whoring (face planting) badly, Ezza hurt his knee….again, Boomer soaked up some rays (and fluids) and was good ballast in the boat…. and Daz? Well, lets just say the Roid Tribunal ensured that Daz would leave mental scars on everyone of us….
What did he do to deserve being whipped, half naked at 70km/h on nothing more than a glorified tractor tube, you ask? Well, I think the best way to put it is he was just being ‘Daz’.
The high pitched gurgling screams were reminissent of a little school girl, which is also very ‘Daz’.
And just so I don’t leave you with that terribly bad taste in your mouth, here’s a much nicer picture of the Blackwood….. (both photos by Jerka)….
Yep. A good couple of weeks.
Yep, it’s been awhile between drinks here but I’m still alive and kicking… The footy season has finally finished for my team – we made the grand final only to go down to a better side in Scarborough – but a great effort from our boys… So followed 3 days of “drowning our sorrows” and now I’m back at work with the bloody flu!!
Now, with a lot more time on my hands, I’ve got some ideas which I’ve been working on periodically over the past 6-8 months so hopefully over the summer you’ll see some more designs and paintings coming to fruition… Not to mention the next movie release (S.T.) which will be hitting our small screens around the end of the year…!
So, I’m staying busy! Hope youre healthy and happy!
Saturday, 11th June 2011.
The surf report was nothing too exciting. A long period 2.2meter SW swell and a gusty 20 knot NEasterly but it was my first Saturday off from playing footy so it was worth the punt.
A 5am leave time meant that Frog, Ezz and me were driving in the cold dark and, apart from a run-in with a particuarly stupid roo (who ran across the road, stopped then turned around and ran back across the road making Frog get on the brakes) it was a smooth trip.
We arrived at the break at 7 as the sun poked it’s head up over the dunes. It was freezing cold but there was no one to be seen and there were a few nice small ones rolling through. Ezz had brought his GoPro camera, which we mounted to my Dads gath helmet, and this was the first time we had put it through its paces. I wasnt expecting much, footage wise, as it is very dependant on the angle of the camera, the ability of the surfer (or lack of) and, obviously, what the waves are doing.
After about an hour, we decided to move down the beach a bit to where we thought it might be a bit more sheltered from the biting wind. It was. And the surf, although small, was fun and almost perfect beachies. We swapped the helmet cam between us for the whole morning and, after 3 and a half hours in the water, finally crawled back to Perth.
Knackered, and with wives and girlfriends well grumpy due to us being 3 hours late, we checked the footage. It’s AWESOME! Got some great barrel shots and Ive edited it all down to a 5min clip to be included in the next movie (due for release in December!)
It’s days like these that keep me going. 3 bro’s, whooping, singing, f**king around, havin fun and getting barrelled without another person to be seen.
This still frame was taken from the video footage… Nice shot Frog..!